when the last tour bus has left




there is time just before dark
to walk through our quiet village of Mozaga
to the back of the Monumento al Campesino
it is a less known, secret route
through the pristine gardens at the side
next to the now snoozing café
and the dimmed casa museum
until out in the fig-lined front
we walk past the neatly raked picon
the walled zocos protecting the vines
and over to the white-painted arena
our shadows stretch in dimming light
as we follow the lava stones
that edge along the snaking footpath
and up to the Monumento itself
where in the long shadow of the statue
constructed from recycled water tanks -
we quietly steal across stepping-stones
up the steps carved into the volcanic base
something like a plaque waits on the side:
'Monumento al Campesino: César Manrique 1968'.
- dedication and fertility symbol from the artist
to the local conejero agricultural farmers
whilst around us now the various crops:
grapes, melons, potatoes, onions, squash,
flourish in the gentle dips and mounds of picon
an inflection in volcanic soil, always thirsty for water
as late sun gilds the drying corn husks
igniting grey-green lichen on dry lava walls
- and from far across the lava fields
the shrike calls out her final 'good-night'
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